Polar Bear Blog – Northwinds

Well, that was a bit of a pause… but this bear season ended up being a lot busier than I thought and more fun too. Things are still looking a little grim for Churchill’s bears but at least the temperatures are starting to drop and the north winds have finally arrived.

There are tons of bears around right now – 20-30 out in buggyland, another 15-20 between town and Camp Nanuq… Polar Bear Alert is busy scaring bears away from town – usually into the river so that they can just continue their northern progress… other times, darting or trapping them and relocating by helicopter.

We had two days of snow this week and it is enough that it will stay… it is also enough that one good night of heavy winds will close up our road and, well, most of the roads along the coast. More snow clouds loom over the bay daily, threatening to come ashore but just not quite doing so.

Several bears have taken up residence at the old Churchill dump – feasting on fermented grain tailings… a bit of an ‘end of the world’ party if you like. Regardless of their state of sobriety, it is the closest bear viewing you will ever experience even if it is a little weird.

Conservation cleared out Brian Ladoon’s place this season too and is still cruising by with binoculars here and there. I kind of hope they don’t go back in because Dancer showed up and is hanging out there. I doubt he would survive a helicopter relocation…

And that’s about it for now, it finally feels like winter in Churchill, the parka people are becoming fewer and farther between and there are even hints of end of bear season annoyance in the locals. Lounges and restaurants are posting their final closing dates for the year and the year-end party, the Ducks Unlimited Supper, is Saturday. Another season pretty much done even if the best bears may be yet to come.

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Polar Bear Blog – Bears and A Quick Flight North

The north winds have arrived a couple days ago and stuck around for a bit, making it at least feel like bear season now (even if it feels more like the beginning than the beginning of the end).

This afternoon, the wind dropped off and the sun came out, giving the bears a bit of an incentive to move around. There was sparring along the coast, bears walking towards town (catching its scent from 15 or 20 kilometres away) and just generally being in a better mood.

The rain has turned to snow but temperatures still tip the scales just enough to melt it back and expose the tundra. It is starting to feel like the bears will be here quite late this year – of course, we say this almost every year so that could change fairly quickly…

Took a flight up the coast today, a quick trip to Arviat, Nunavut and back to look at the coast – kind of get a feel as to what’s happening. So far, there is really no sign of ice out in the bay at all… usually at this time of year (even a late year), there is ice floating around out there that could be pushed ashore for a quick freeze – not so much this year.

But once you cross the Manitoba-Nunavut border, there is a real difference, more pancake ice along the shore and more bears walking around. We saw six along the coast just on this quick trip, probably could have found a few more if we really looked hard (and if the fog around Arviat held off a bit longer…).

It kind of makes you wonder if the western Hudson Bay population will eventually split – with more of this group heading north of the Churchill River and more staying south near the freshwater outflow of the Nelson River in southwest Hudson Bay. Hard to say…

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Polar Bear Blog – My New Neighbour

My new neighbour checked in this afternoon again. We found him walking across the ice by Spruce Ridge cabins and back towards Boris’ place, his new home. He is a bit of a lean bear so I cannot tell if he is just trying to avoid everyone or waiting to see if there is another cabin to invade. So, I put together some nailboards this week for extra defence since my dogs are still down south. Also added a few chairs, some firewood and a ladder as a few more obstacles to late night visitors.

And those defences will likely come in handy as it is another warm day, actually humid today, and more mild temperatures predicted for the coming week. I mean this can all change if the jet stream shifts or if a real north wind arrives and drops the temperatures but right now, winter is taking its sweet time to arrive.

Bears are still spread out over the coast – decent numbers in buggyland and still more drifting along, finding daytime hiding places to avoid Manitoba Conservation officers. I am thinking I might ask those same officers to bring a polar bear trap out to Boris’ place before my new friend gets too brave.

It has been an active season at Camp Nanuq. A bear broke in to my friend Roland’s cabin and his shed, after eating his way through the back wall. Then a polar bear trap was placed out there and a cub wandered in while his mother and sister(?) sat outside and waited. He got a little frustrated and ended up hammering the side of the trap for a couple hours trying to escape. A big year for a place that’s usually fairly quiet…

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Polar Bear Blog – Getting a Little Nervous

Well, the predicted cool wave never showed up. Daily highs are still just above freezing, meaning there is more snow-rain-snow that just snow or even ice. The bay is still open, even the scattered ice in the Churchill River has washed out. This is definitely a warmer than usual bear season – getting some really nice skies with the clouds moving in and out though.

There are a decent amount of bears scattered along the coast. Looks like Brian’s Bears have returned – sounds like five can be found hanging out at his dogyard, still varying numbers in buggyland ranging from a handful to two handfuls depending on the day. Two scrappy brothers have taken up residence at Bird Cove and are pretty entertaining, a few more sub-adults are venturing closer to town – most ending up in the trap at the L5 garbage dump.

Speaking of which, it looks like the town has gone ahead with plans to open a new dump, unfortunately it is plunked in one of our few truly unspoiled views of the tundra up here. It is sad that there is so much money and ideas floating around for zoos and research but somehow no one could help figure out a sustainable waste management program for the polar bear capital of the world. That’s all I have to say about that – what’s done is done.

As for wildlife, snowy owls and gyrfalcons are being seen along the coast. There is a silver fox running around out in buggyland with his tail up – looking more like a dog than a fox. Snow buntings are still here, a few more arctic foxes and red foxes are popping up here and there and the geese are finally gone.

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Polar Bear Blog – Minus Five And Counting

It looks like we are finally in for a week of sub-zero temperatures. The ground should harden up and tundra ponds freeze over fairly quickly, bringing more bears into the area. Polar bears generally do not like to get wet at this time of year and given that the land around here is a maze of lakes, marsh, creeks and rivers, ice makes a big difference for travel – both for bears and humans. Yesterday, flying out of Seal River, we saw a bear halfway across a half-frozen lake – pretty much just testing the ice for no real reason other than wishful thinking.

Even Churchill is picking up, there is a bit more of an early morning and late night bustle. More parkas can be seen wandering the icy-slick streets, a few more buses are parked outside Gypsy Bakery and Northern Images and, of course, the chartered planes have become commonplace – as with their air crews ducking in for lunch, again at Gypsy’s.

So far, I have heard varying reports about the bears out in buggyland – ranging from eight to 22 depending on who you talk to – so might head out there today with Classic Canadian tours to see what’s up. Classic Canadian has an interesting little tour set-up where you wake up in Calgary or Edmonton, jump on a 737, land in Churchill to watch some bears, buy a book or two and head home that evening. A bit of a contrast from lodge life no doubt.

Some of the snow has melted so the tundra offal pokes through with browns, reds and greys. A few more foxes and falcons have been spotted as well as a number of snowy owls. Two snowies were hanging out at Seal River, two in buggyland and one or two more along the coast road, probably a sign of a big lemming (rodent) population. This should mean we will find some arctic foxes bouncing around soon too.

The Port of Churchill season is winding down, one by one the ships anchored offshore are disappearing, first heading into one of the berths for loading then heading off to Europe and such. There is likely only a week or so left of work before the Port starts shutting down for the winter. This season it appears that it will be empty over the winter months instead of storing grain for the Canadian Wheat Board, hopefully this does not impact the start of next shipping season. There is definitely a lot of anxiety over the future of the Port of Churchill right now. It really dwarfs tourism when it comes to local employment and economic impact.

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Polar Bear Blog – Seal River Lodge

Day two at Seal River, a polar bear viewing lodge about 50km north of Churchill. The guides are just opening up the shutters on the windows, the french photographers stands in the compound willing the clouds away, the coffee is hot and the moosehead, ducks and caribou antlers cast some good shadows on the walls. Lodge life is nice.

We have two juvenile bears hanging around, kind of reminding me of the old scrappy brothers in buggyland – one clean and one dirty, both a little curious. Seal River is a pretty unique place, we start the day viewing bears from the safety of the viewing compound for a while then head outside the fence and walk up to watch the bears some more.

Our guides, Tara and Andy, get us about 70-80′ from the bears, not too shabby. The bears for their part generally ignore us, lay in the kelp, walk along the beach, eat berries, wait for seals…. bear stuff.

Before lunch, we head back into the compound and I use a couple old bear tricks to get Scrappy 1 (the clean one) to come up to the fence. Bear tricks are pretty much just anything to get their attention – in this case, a sniffle – and then just sat down on the ground while everyone else kept standing. Bears have a hard time staying away from things that are ‘different’. Luckily, being different is one of my special skills along with typing and jumping jacks.

He walks up and gnaws on the wire. I get some good shots of him and can pretty much count his teeth, one my closer encounters over the years for sure. He looks friendly as he tests the wire, methodically searching for a weakness and a chance to kill me. Cute!

Polar bear tests the fence.

More polar bear pics are posted on the Bear Season facebook page here.

After lunch, we head out again, heading by Scrappy One again (luckily I have changed clothes now) and on to some ptarmigan – a huge flock plucking seeds from the willows and generally trying to blend in. They have already turned white while the willow, birch and bearberry remain brown, pretty much highlighting the birds’ camoflauge as opposed to actually camoflauging them. The group practices their ptarmigan calls with mixed results.

Today we will hike north, follow a few shallow bays on Hudson Bay, look for another bear or maybe the arctic fox that has been hanging around the runway. I can see Jupiter this morning – apparently it is Jupiter – so that’s a good sign. Clear skies are nice too.

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Polar Bear Blog – What is Churchill

I just realized that not everyone may have an idea what Churchill is, so here is an explanation, at least physically.

Churchill is a collection of houses, stores and hotels built from other houses, stores, shacks, ATCO trailers, bowling alleys and whatever else happened to be lying around at the time. Do not be surprised to find one of Churchill’s original tar-paper shacks lying at the heart of one of Churchill’s newer looking houses. This is not unique to Churchill, of course, it can be found all across the north. We may not seem ecofriendly but we can really recycle a building.

The rest of Churchill, actually the most of Churchill but who’s counting, is comprised of Manitoba Public Housing units. These are ‘California-style’ beach houses that were likely never intended for the arctic winters of Churchill, not to mention a good number of the windows were installed upside-down and a fair bit of insulation was ‘forgotten’ when they were built.

They were built in the early 1970s as a response to the military withdrawal from Churchill – there were a bunch of government promises of development to make up for the closing military base and removal of personnel. Most of them didn’t materialize with the exception of enough public housing for 3500 people in a town that has always really hovered around 1000. Strangely enough, its always really tough to get an apartment here… weird.

On the bright side, a few years back all the public housing units started getting retrofitted – beginning with the ones most visible to tourists first (insert eye roll). So now instead of chipped brown and yellow paint, most are blue, red and non-intrusive yellow (at least for now). Looks pretty good all told.

And the final link in this motley collection is the Town Centre Complex, which is exactly what it sounds like. It is the town offices, school, library, skating rink, hospital, curling rink, gymnasium, daycare, cafeteria, movie theatre and I think that’s it. Oh there is a giant polar bear slide too.

The complex part comes in with who exactly pays for the costs of running the building. Again, it was designed as ‘compensation’ for the military withdrawal but it was also designed based on two dollars a barrel for oil. As oil skyrocketed to four dollars, the Town Complex’s budget was already out of whack. With most things in Churchill, government scattered a la Roadrunner/Wile E. Coyote. It is a weird phenomena, as long as there are announcements about saving polar bears or touring VIPs across Canada, the Feds, the Province and everyone else are readily available, Simple words such as sewage infrastructure, operating agreement or garbage dump tend to have the opposite effect.

Now, add to all of this a plethora of random community symbols, statues and picnic areas. There are two competing factions for town symbols in Churchill – one is the Churchill Ladies Club and the other is Edgar, the town – well I am not sure what he is anymore – but he was the guy with the loader for several years. Mainly through these two entities (although not solely), the town also has relocated trees, rocks and boats, more picnic shelters and inukshuks than you can shake a stick at, a bigger boat (The Enterprise) on the beach, a medecine wheel, three Thompson wolf statues, a polar bear statue, plaques for Thandadelthur, the Sons of Martha and the Heritage Train Station, more sitting areas (most of which are conveniently located right beside ‘Polar Bear Alert Do Not Walk Here’ signs), three Welcome to Churchill signs that I know of, a Churchill scenic route sign (that is closed for 80% of bear season and now ends at the garbage dump), a boardwalk, a sidewalk, a centennial cement maple leaf, a few cairns and a ‘weather rock’ that explains the joke just a little too much.

Finally, we don’t have a MacDonalds or Wal-Mart but we do have one four-way stop and an overpass that actually doesn’t lead anywhere anymore. And that’s Churchill.

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Polar Bear Blog – More snow, More bears

Slush turned to snow overnight, icing up the roads and grounding helicopters – generally making things feel more like bear season. The town tractors are out in force (as in all two have been mobilized…) spreading gravel on the roads to melt the ice a bit.

There is a nice white dusting of snow and a bear or two moving along the coast today, probably more heading towards buggyland. The wind has died down a bit, gusting only to 60km/h (not quite 40mph), waves are still rolling on the bay but not so much as to eat the beach.

Raven, mergansers and buntings flew by the lake today, a few tracks – mostly fox – on the way to town; looks like things are moving again. Funny how a bit of snow brings life to the taiga – animal paths emerge, white fills the glacial cracks and crevices on the rocks, the browns and greys transform to reds and yellows, even the public housing in Churchill looks nicer. Hard to beat the first snowfall.

There are a few more buses on the road too, looks like they are waking up after the storm as well… the migration of tourists seems to be picking up. Soon the groups of parka-clad confusion will return to our streets, alternately searching for buses, restaurants and giftshops.

As for Churchill itself, well the town is holding their ‘Churchill No Fluoride’ vote today – apparently its mind-rotting poison, not sure how many votes they need to sway town council’s opinion but in my experience up here, these things usually bring out a core of supporters and the rest of town sort of shuffles along – especially so in the fresh snow. I hope it works out, the No Fluoride group has worked pretty hard at this cause.

The legislation to remove the Canadian Wheat Board’s monopoly has likely already been introduced in Ottawa (Canada’s capital… like Washington except with less lobbyists and fun, just as many phallic symbols though). The CWB says they will not use the Port of Churchill in an open market due to the heightened competition so things look a little grim for at least next year’s shipping season. After that, I could see Prime Minister Harper riding in as Churchill’s white knight but I am just not sure what form that will take.

That’s about it for now – heading out to look for bears.

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Polar Bear Blog – Any Press is Good Press I Guess

So, now that the economic meltdown et al has kind of taken the spotlight away from climate change, environment and starving polar bears, Churchill has managed to emerge with a new crisis. The Port of Churchill.

Canada’s Conservative Government has stated that they will introduce legislation tomorrow to eliminate the Canadian Wheat Board, a cooperative marketing agency developed by prairie farmers in the 1920s/30s.

Aside from the varying political, economic and social arguments for and against, the tricky thing about all this is that the Canadian Wheat Board provides about 90%+ of the Port of Churchill’s business (which is still only about 1.5% of the Wheat Board’s total shipping…).

The government has declared that they will have this legislation to open up the Wheat Board’s monopoly by December. Given the fact that this will turn the grain companies that the CWB currently uses as facilitators into competitors, it doesn’t really bode well for this institution. Add to the fact that the CWB doesn’t really have any infrastructure since the majority of its profits were passed directly to farmers, they have little chance of surviving in an open market.

This really does bring up the question of where Churchill will end up? Science predicts that polar bears will disappear from Hudson Bay within 30 years, the Port may be left without its primary client within a year or two, not too good.

But then again, Churchill has been declared dead or at least mortally wounded countless times over its 300 year history… sometimes it rebounds in five or ten years, occasionally its eighty.

But… back to reality, there are a few bears roaming the coast – one out at Mile 4 gravel pit, one by Great White Bear Tours launch site and, of course, Brian’s bears. Wind is still strong, the snow has turned back to rain which could very well turn to ice tonight. The shingles have blown off Button Street and the trees are very unhappy.

Oh and a moose was spotted out at the end of Goose Creek road.

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Polar Bear Blog – Sort of Blizzard, Sort of Bears

Well, the temperature has dropped just enough to change the rain into snow which in turn turns to slush a few minutes after falling. Still it feels more like bear season now…

The north wind is still making its presence known. The road behind the Town Centre Complex is over-run with ocean foam and huge waves are crashing on the beach, pretty impressive. The coast trails out in buggyland are flooded today too, mired in foam and kelp.

Everything is still pretty much hunkered down so far, arctic hare hide behind the greywacke rocks by Cape Merry, bears are lying low and even the Snow Buntings only twirl and swirl around for a while before going back to eating seeds.

There was at least one bear moving yesterday though. I caught up to a sub-adult, probably three years old or so, playing hide and seek with Polar Bear Alert officers at Cape Merry yesterday. Two trucks drove strategically around trying to find and move him back into the bay but that bear was pretty adamant about not swimming back out into the surf – not even sure he could have given the pounding waves on Hudson Bay.

I saw him skulking through the willows just over the ridge from the officers, trying to run the gauntlet. Once he saw me, he paused and rethought his path, even though my truck was definitely not polar bear alert colours (some bears can usually figure out how to recognize the polar bear alert trucks… running from them but a sight more casual with other non-authoritative vehicles).

Eventually, all of us lost sight of him, hard to say whether he snuck by town, hunkered down or if Polar Bear Alert eventually coaxed him into the somewhat less imposing river.

So far, there have been about 190 polar bear occurrences reported by Polar Bear Alert this year, only 7 or 8 bears in the polar bear jail right now. Earlier this summer, there were three events where PBA officers were forced to put down rogue polar bears.

One of these was an eighteen year old bear that had a long file of cabin break-ins, encounters with researchers and such over the years. He was pretty aggressive, challenging the officers truck when they ‘pushed’ him and even caving in the hood. Not the best move to make.

But, back to the north wind… this weather hopefullly will trigger that ‘change in season’ response in the bears’ brains and get them moving north towards Churchill. If some colder temperatures settle in this week, there should be good numbers of bears heading towards Cape Churchill.

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