Polar Bear Blog – Hudson Bay Is Awake

After about a week of rain and gloom, the north winds have arrived. Of course, we still have rain and gloom but at least it feels a little more like the change in seasons is upon us up here.

Waves are assaulting the rocky shoreline, the lime grass is whipping in the wind; all stoically observed by the last groups of Canada and Snow Geese, likely dreaming of New York golf courses and Nebraska wheat fields.

The town is pretty quiet this morning, some churchgoers drift by in newly purchased vehilces, a few tourists and possibly late night partiers brave the beach – watching the waves and rage of Hudson Bay. Abandoned picnic areas and Inukshuks wait for the rain and wind to let up and the stereotypical tourist photos to return.

Winds are gusting up 90km/h (60 miles an hour) – enough to rattle the truck windows and spray ocean foam over what’s left of our beaches. Temperatures are still about five degrees above ‘normal’, keeping this rain storm from being our first blizzard of the season. And keeping the bears from really moving around too much – wind and rain equals a couch day for polar bears.

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Polar Bear Blog – Bear Season Begins…

Well, this is the latest I think I have ever started bear season… should arrive on Saturday. Drive the seven hours to Thompson tomorrow and then Hudson Bay rail line from there… then its time to open up the cabin, cut some firewood and get started.

Anyway, its a rainy, cold and windy start to bear season (it is still weird referring to the middle of October as the ‘start’ of bear season…). Sounds like there are a few bears out in buggyland, maybe five or six. A few tourists starting to trickle in as well.

This year, I will be leading an art project about Churchill. It will bring together artists from across North America – as in Miami, Toronto, Winnipeg, Vancouver and Whitehorse… – to create a visual time capsule of the events of bear season. It should be pretty neat – and most importantly, it will force me to blog everyday. Stay tuned, I will be updating the site with art, bears and stuff…

Aside from that, Arviat, Nunavut (the next community north of Churchill… about 200km) is reporting a lot of polar bears hanging around town – another sign that bears are coming ashore further north than expected.

Environment Canada is predicting mainly southeasterly winds for October so that means it should be another late ice season for the bears – we need the northwest winds to push the frozen saltwater grease ice towards shore… good news for bear watchers.

Still, weather is truly unpredictable along Hudson Bay so things could easily change…

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Polar Bear Blog – Thirty Years Ago…

Here’s an old CBC Fifth Estate documentary on polar bears and Churchill – filmed in November 1981… This is the first reference to 10,000 visitors a year which is strange, as Churchill’s tourism has developed into a significant international industry and we probably get less than 10,000 visitors a year and there are up to 18 tundra vehicles operating instead of one! Notice the open deck on the back of the tundra buggy…

They also identify my cottage subdivision ‘Nanuq’ as a problem area for bears, luckily keeping property values low.

Watch the CBC Polar Bears of Churchill Documentary – November 1981

It takes a while to load and you might have to refresh the screen on the link once or twice, the video doesnt always load (c’mon its our public broadcaster…) but its definitely worth it. It even has a catchy tag line… ‘problem bears have become good news bears’

So, that brings me to ‘Bear Season’, this year (my 13th bear season), I am leading an art project and time capsule to document the events, ideas and images of Bear Season. Each day between October 15 and November 15, I will create a mini-time capsule of that specific day. This daily time capsule will be used as inspiration for artists across North America to create a piece of artwork depicting that moment in bear season. These daily paintings will be grouped into composite images of Churchill’s bear season and displayed as a visual time capsule accompanying a real time capsule of interviews, articles, facts, etc….

So far, we have artists from Toronto, Winnipeg, Miami, Vancouver and Whitehorse participating and more are signing up by the day. If you are an artist or know someone who would be interested, contact me at polarbearalley@gmail.com… Of course, as with most art projects, it is a non-paying gig for now but I am workin’ on that…

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Polar Bear Blog – Bear Season 2011 Preview

October is here and time to start blogging again… There have been a few miserably cold days so far but not too many, shaping up to be an average start to ‘bear season’. Freezing at night, hovering aroundd five or six degrees Celsius during the day.

There is usually a bit of a lull in bear movement right now. There is always a bit of a pause before things really pick up. In about a week or so, when temperatures dip down a bit a few bears will move through but I would not expect the big numbers of bears to hit until the end of the month.

Reports are that there are not too many bears (if any) at Hubbard Point, a traditional staging area south east of Churchill in Wapusk National Park – usually when bears are spotted there, it means they will show up in buggyland a couple weeks later.

There are bears north of Churchill again, part of an increasing trend for a portion of western Hudson Bay’s bears to come ashore north of the Churchill River. Usually, they ride the ice down to southwest Hudson Bay and come ashore near York Factory National Historic Site. In fact, a polar bear viewing lodge now operates in that area offering summer viewing of Churchill’s bears.

The usual news articles have popped up this summer – Sea Ice appears to be at the lowest recorded summer level since 1979, a giant hole in the Arctic ozone appeared, 2011 is again a low ice year for Hudson Bay and we might get hit by an asteroid on either October 17 or possibly November 8th. The Svensmark Cosmic Theory was confirmed and we discovered a planet that revolved around two suns kind of undermining some of our basic beliefs about the universe… you know the usual.

We are also finally returning to a peak in solar activity (which may have something to do with the ozone hole… hard to say). This is good news for Churchill travellers and residents as northern lights are the direct offshoots of solar storms.

Churchill is directly under the auroral oval and therefore experiences the brightest, most active northern lights during these events. This should be a great season for aurora…

Of course, there have been a lot of serious polar bear encounters around the world this year too including a crazy youtube video on a bear in a russian town. As well, a student was fatally attacked on Svalbard, just last week a researcher was killed on Franz Joseph Island… not to mention the early summer bear encounters in Churchill. Of course, Churchill’s bears are a little less ‘wild’ than Russian bears but, nonetheless, you probably should not wander around alone at night looking up at the sky…

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Polar Bear Blog – Bear News

So, it’s August and already starting to think about polar bears as much as I have resisted… but hey there are worse things.

Just starting to get ready for bear season here – mostly painting and getting an art exhibition ready this year… celebrating my 13th bear season, might as well do something unique or uniquer i guess. And I sort of happened to get caught up in bear news again… as usual, there is no shortage of polar bear articles…

This looks like another sub-par ice year for Hudson Bay, similar to last year. While not as desperate as the ice charts make it seem, the bears were off early again. So after, a banner ice year in 2009, we now have two below average years following that up… to me this means trouble for Churchill’s bears.

With a good ice year, cub survival will increase the following year and this is pretty much the case in 2009. However, this also means that there are more sub-adult bears wandering around this year and more sub-adult bears in energetic stress due to the shorter ice season. In turn, this will likely translate to more problem bears and more bears showing up in Churchill earlier than usual. Just a thought…

On the other hand, nature is showing some signs of an early winter this year so whether this simply means a cooler summer/fall or an early freeze-up remains to be seen.

What else? Sounds like it was pretty much a perfect storm on Svalbard where that kid got killed – their trip wire fence didnt work, the flare gun fizzled and then their rifle misfired four times. When you think about all the close calls in Churchill, you really do have to consider that Churchill’s bears may be somewhat less ‘predatory’ than other population around the world… probably due to their 40+ years around people… (although there were actually three bears killed this summer by conservation officers…)

Apparently, the earliest polar bears are now thought to originate in Ireland not Siberia…

The dude who discovered the drowned polar bears in the Bering Sea is now under investigation for essentially trading favours with the University of Alberta… it all seems a little unclear, should be interesting to see what comes out of all this.

And our federal government looks like it will finally place the polar bear on Canada’s SARA list (Species At Risk Act – no one does acronyms like a good bureaucrat…). The decision is scheduled for this November (bear season!) but given the recent cuts in Environment Canada expect it by 2014…

There – a polar bear update.

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Polar Bear Blog – Polar Bear Close Encounters

Well, I am up in the Yukon this summer so not writing too much about polar bears since, well, there aren’t any here… we DID see a black mountain lion last weekend though, its kind of like a polar bear except completely different.

Anyway, it sounds like a there have been a couple aggressive bears around this summer. The first one chased a photographer down on the beach by the Town Centre Complex. The photog got away unhurt but when Polar Bear Alert arrived, the bear didnt respond to their scare tactics and ended up ramming the conservation truck… not really the smartest move.

Then another encounter happened on Friday morning where a Churchill resident ran into a bear on her way to work at the Town Complex again… She ended up fending off the bear with her bags until help came! I used to think I was scaring bears with a shotgun but waving bags is stepping it up a notch.

This may be the same bear that broke into Camp Nanuq just a few days before, first tearing the garage door apart on my neighbours house and then vandalizing the Boy Scout camp across the lake (no boy scouts present…). From the pictures I have seen so far this year, the bears are not in great shape – at least the ones roaming near Churchill right now…

Here is a quick breakdown of what happens in spring/early summer around Churchill… every year a big lead opens up just off the mouth of the Churchill River, some days it feels like all the ice is gone until the wind changes and brings it all back. On sunny days, a hundred or more seals gather and haul out in the spring heat… where there are seals there are bears… sometimes they swim/walk ashore to check out Churchill. Usually though, you might only hear about one or two bears hazed back into the bay as opposed to full on bear encounters – this explains the July 4 encounter.

Last year, a large number of bears came through early in the summer and then bear encounters tailed off as many bears actually came ashore north of Churchill. As of July 25, the bay looks pretty much open – an early ice-free season by most measurements… so this latest encounter would have been a bear with no other option than hanging around Churchill… maybe these bear encounters will not settle down for 2011, guess we will see.

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Polar Bear Blog – So Much for the Moon

Well, it kind of looks like the river was ‘breaking’ while I was writing the last blog entry so there goes that prediction… not to mention the fact that a few belugas showed up almost immediately after the river opened.

It broke a little strangely this year, not opening up from the river out but more from Hudson Bay on in… a south wind opened up a fair bit of water at the mouth of the river and the ice just kind of gradually let go as opposed to being flushed out with an outgoing tide. Something different every year I guess.

Still, spring is taking its time, the cool weather has kept the wildflowers at bay for now, I can see a few greening up and found some purple saxifrage (the first bloomer of the season) but everything else has yet to colour the tundra.

The birds have settled back into Camp Nanuq. This year two eiders are nesting on the tiny island on the lake, Pacific Loons have set up shop on the other end and I think I saw a long-tailed duck here and there but they are lying pretty low right now – my only confirmed sighting was briefly on my neighbour’s dock.

Sure is nice to hear the call of the loons again especially with the mist hanging over the lake, not bad at all. Should be a good weekend, sun is back and the full moon is on its way.

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Polar Bear Blog – The Moon in June Will Bring Belugas

Well, back in Churchill for a bit, heading out to Camp Nanuq today to check on the cabin. Beautiful weekend here, temperatures got up to about 20C yesterday, no bugs yet.

Its a pretty typical Churchill spring. Its been cold and a bit ugly, only one really nice day (other than this weekend). The river is still frozen, a thin line of blue has just appeared this week – probably meaning that it will ‘break’ with the next high tide, likely next weekend. My prediction is next Saturday, just after this week’s full moon, there is usually a pretty big tide… I know there is usually a little pool for which date the Churchill River opens up… after that, it is another week or so before the first beluga whales are spotted, a bit skittish, usually ones heading south to the Nelson River estuary as opposed to the ones that stick around here all summer.

Not too many bears around so far, I think only one spotted behind the town centre complex last week. There is open water on the bay even if most of it is frozen. Usually with a spotting scope you can find some seals and maybe a bear out on the ice north of town. The lead opens with south winds and closes up with north – it will do this for a while… there is still about five or six weeks of ice left on the bay.

Lots of birds around and a few birding groups too. There was a group on the train, counting Canada Geese and assorted ducks from the uber-slow train ride into town. Pretty sure after one day in town, they have given up on the Canada Geese… Should be good birding, lakes are mostly open and the geese were really moving when the night before I jumped on the train and still flying when i got to Churchill. Good sign that the north is warming up.

A few more signs of summer… Workers are being called back to the Port of Churchill, ATVs are out and about so are BBQs and a tour bus or two, Gypsy Bakery patio is open, there was one mosquito bite reported from Goose Creek and the train was late.

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Polar Bear Blog – Churchill, Manitoba – An Afternoon At Goose Creek Turn-Off

Another beautiful day in Churchill, sunny and too nice to be sitting inside updating the Polar Bear Blog… but I did come across an old Hudson Bay Post article – an interview with Churchill dog musher, Charlie Lundie. This was a couple years ago but he hasn’t changed much, other than winning the Hudson Bay Quest this year and becoming the first Churchill, Manitoba dog sled team to do so.

Afternoon Tea at the Goose Creek Turn-Off

I caught up with Charlie Lundie at his dog shack, an old RCAF portable generator building, plunked down beside his dogs. You can still see the motor mounts on the floor and wheel wells buried beneath bags of dogfood. It’s pretty cozy for a tough old building.

Checking his training calendar (2008), you can see the training runs and distances scribbled in, some days 13 miles, some ten, twenty, even up to thirty six miles. Looking at the blank spots in January, its a pretty good record of the severe winter we have had. Not much point training in minus fifty plus.

This year, his third Hudson Bay Quest, Charlie is running ten dogs, almost the same as last year’s race with a couple upgrades. Copper and Girly are his leaders They are two gee-haw (right-left in musher talk) command leaders, Copper coming over from Christopher Lake, SK and Girly in a trade with another musher from La Ronge, SK. He prefers smaller dogs, easier to handle and less food but still strong.

He started out dog sledding six years ago, first contracting with Dave Daley’s Wapusk Adventures and then going out on his own a couple years later. He explains, “I moved away in the late 70s, first to BC and then working for Highways in Thompson. When I came back to Churchill (in 1999), getting back into dogs was the first thing on my mind.”

Now, he runs Charlie’s Dog Sled Tour on his own, slowly building up equipment, dogs and clients.
“Dogs and my family go back a long way. Me and George had dogs and George used to trap with my uncle.” he says. “It’s like it’s in the blood, I guess you would say.”

“My uncles were Fred Oman and George Oman, they were trappers across river. My Dad, Dave Lundie, trapped from North River to Arviat in the 30s. He traveled all around up north, other guys like old Eddie Batstone, Cliff Cochrane, Reg Ayotte, there were lots of guys. Mostly trapping arctic fox, staying out there and living off the land.

“That was the biggest reason why I went into the Hudson Bay Quest. I wanted to see how those guys made it out there, how they survived. In those days, there was no GPS, no satellite phones, no fancy equipment, who knows what they had, nothing I guess.”

Sled dogs used to be a mainstay of Churchill life. “Back in the 50s and 60s, there used to be teams parked in front of the Churchill and Hudson Hotels, in front of the Bay (Hudson’s Bay Company Store). Guys would come in off the trap line to pick up food, get supplies, go for beers. Everybody traveled by dogs in those years.”

He smiles, saying,”Its important to remember that dogs were here first, so they have the right of way over the snowmobile.

“There used to be shacks across river. Joe Bighead, Omans, Lundies and old Borge was over there too. There were lots of people at North River then too, the Dene stayed there, when they weren’t following the caribou inland, around Caribou Lake or Duck Lake.

“At one time, the Flats was a small community, so was Jockville, and Akudlik. There were a lot of people up there but everyone moved into town once the kids got older.

“Remember DPW and the Port were big things back then. The Port was booming, workers would come in from Alberta and Saskatchewan, a lot of people came up here to work at the elevator.

“There were lots of dog races back then, everyone travelled into town to race in the Winter Carnival, the Dene, Cree, trappers would all come in. Big names back then were Frank Spence, Bill MacDonald (Robert’s dad), Frank Martin to name a few. It used to be a big race at one time.

“Hockey was a big thing here too, the Navy had two teams, Navy Whites and Navy Blues, Camp had teams, in town there were two, I think the Seals and the Red Caps.

“The army would station guys here who were good hockey players just so they could win, that’s how competitive it was back in those days. Even the HBC would send up employees who were good players, they’d play for the town. There was a league here, they’d play three times a week, Sunday, Tuesday and Thursday. I think there were eight hockey teams at one time. Lots of fastball teams, everybody in Churchill played hockey or some kind of sport, now it seems no one is interested. I blame TV for that, its harder to get people outside now.

“The Quest is a really good thing for this town. There’s lots of interest this year too. Its going to be a good race. Still, I think we should race more up here. There’s lots of guys with dogs now, we could have a race almost every weekend.

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Polar Bear Blog – South Wind Returns So Do Mothers and Cubs

After a week of balmy temperatures, sun and no wind, the south wind has returned to some degree, bringing a bit of gray to the coast but not much change to the spring temperatures. Snow is melting quickly here, the main road to town is almost clear and even the winter road into the cabin is getting soft. Temperatures must be close to zero celsius today, definitely a ‘climate change’ day.

One of the threats listed to polar bear survival is unseasonably warm temperatures in the spring allowing easier access to seal birthing dens and thereby reducing the bears’ main food source. This year should definitely test that theory.

An abundance of mother and cubs reports (both live sightings and tracks in the snow) are circulating around Churchill this year. In the last week, I have seen three sets of mother and cubs tracks passing through the area – the freshest from two days ago; a mom with two cubs weaving their way to the bay, the snow still crumbling into the paw prints.

Watchee Lodge sounds to have had an excellent year and even when they closed up, the last workers to head back to Churchill encountered a mother and cubs moving through the trees. Local trappers say this is possibly the most evidence of polar bear family activity they can recall.

So, it sounds like a good year for mothers and cubs and, at least, the next month should continue this trend. With the high temperatures in late March and now April, much of the snow cover has melted off and one would think has probably exposed several seal birthing dens. It should be good eatin’ for the first half of the bear’s spring hunt.

The second half, well, that remains to be seen. The sea ice formed very late and is probably not as thick as normal for this time of year. A continued warming trend will bring an early break-up and an abrupt end to the seal hunt. Best case scenario right now is a warm April with a nice low pressure system settling in over Hudson Bay for May and June. Of course, this is speaking from a bear perspective – Good for bears but kind of disastrous for spring bird migration… you just can’t win it seems…

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