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Explore
Polar Bear Alley - polar bear blog, polar bear tours, polar bear
infoand polar bear pictures. Plus some good Churchill news and
gossip, travel advice, links and a psychic husky.

The truth and gossip about Churchill's polar bears.
Biology of western Hudson Bay bears, climate change stuff and
polar bear photo gallery. Includes our famous Polar
Bear Attack page!

Tourist's guide to Churchill, Manitoba, Canada includes hotels,
tours, trip planning and some survival tips.

Churchill's monthly newspaper published occasionally. Churchill
news, history, wildlife, poems and the ever popular BayLine Girl.

Inspired by Churchill, Lost City Chronicle is a collection
of remote destinations and travel stories.

Glimpse into the future through the eyes of a gifted Siberian
Husky.

Links to polar bear tours, polar bear sites, churchill links and
stuff that polar bear alley thinks is neat.
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The
Polar Blog is a collection of northern stories - polar bear,
arctic and otherwise from Churchill, Manitoba, Canada - the
polar bear capital of the world.
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| Polar
Bear Blog - February 23, 2008 - Winter is Okay... I guess
Its
amazing how quickly you can forget a cold snap. Temperatures have
risen enough (still between -15 and -30C but that's fine with
me) to allow for snowmobiling and snowshoeing without grinding
your teeth or staring at your feet, hiding from the windchill.
Winter is all of a sudden kind of nice in Churchill.
Doing
daily trips these days to chop ice from Stygge Lake behind the
cabin, bringing sled loads to fill up our water barrel or just
snowmobiling on a seemingly never-ending mission to mark a trail
which I end up losing seemingly every day. For some reason, I
thought heading to town on a snowmobile for the day and returning
after dark. It is surprising how easily you can accidentally plow
into a 15' tall snowbank of willows at 2am and how quickly panic
rises when you realize you are hammering through a maze of gnarled
branches and the snowdrifts are somehow now at eye-level. But,
then again, all's well that ends well, so what the hey...
Snowshoeing
is a little easier, naturally, again to Stygge Lake and again
to a willow-laden snowbank. This time, there's a nice hard crust
so its maybe my version of mountain climbing, hiking along the
tops of ancient willows, fifteen or twenty feet about the edge
of the lake. There are a couple spots where the airport buildings
are hidden by trees and you can fool yourself into thinking that
the antenna towers and old rocket launchers are spindly trees
and all of a sudden you are five hundred miles from anywhere.
That's something else for an afternoon 'coffee break' from the
laptop...  |
Polar
Bear Blog - February 20, 2008 - Lunar Eclipse
Just
waiting on the lunar eclipse tonight, somewhere between 8 and
9pm, I think. Next one is 2010 and by then, I'll be full on into
preparations for the Mayan end of the world in 2012 so I better
head out and catch this one. More
on the eclipse here...
Plus,
Saturn is supposed to be following the moon across the sky. As
in, 'What's that bright star in the sky? ...That's Saturn. ...Oooh,
I see. Wow, that's Saturn...' Hopefully, it clears up a bit, snowing
right now and clouds have gloomed up the sky but that's okay,
its -15C and that's minus fifteen not fifty, so that's good.
Thought
I would put the snowmobile trail in to town today but for some
reason, I have this mental block towards my GPS. I just won't
carry it and I am not sure why, it would make life a lot easier.
I've got about half the trail pretty much down in my head and
then there's one spot where I sort of drift off into a new trail
every time I've tried it. I took an axe as my survival kit today,
maybe GPS tomorrow. Should have things nice and packed and marked
by May though...
Lots
of tracks between here and town, ptarmigan, least weasel and other
random rodents, probably poking around this morning looking for
food in the nice weather. There were signs of my wolf following
the hydro line closer to town and, of course, signs of foxes;
tracks and otherwise. There is a great looking silver fax living
near Goose Creek these days and at least one or two traditional
red foxes kicking around, hopefully staying away from the community
trapline. For now, they're using the snowmobile trail more than
us, apparent by the pee marks underneath my axe marks on each
of my lobstick trees. |
| Polar
Bear Blog - February 19, 2008 - Red Aurora
There
must have been a good solar storm this weekend. Around 11pm last
night, there was throbbing red aurora over Hudson Bay. I don't
think I have really seen aurora like that before where the purple
looks red and there is only a sliver of green, if any at all.
Usually, it is quite the opposite. All of that while the moon
was shining bright, lighting up the landscape, pretty impressive
even if I was in a bad mood.
Yesterday
was my first down day of 2008, I'm into the crunch time for the
newspaper and the books and I'm starting to want to throw my laptop
out the window. Too many things 68% done... I think.
Still
very cold here today but its a nice, clean, clear day - better
for everyone's psyche... Can't believe its almost the end of February...
starting to hear some old-time Churchillians talk about how they
don't remember that many, if any, winters being this cold for
this long. I, for one, am hoping that in thirty five years, I
can say that we never had another winter like od'eight and then
maybe I'll tell a story about a greenland shark or about the times
when we all thought the bears were going to disappear. |
Polar
Bear Blog - February 18, 2008 - Need a Boost
Bad
gas has struck again. Truck won't start this morning. Maybe I
didn't plug it in well enough but then again I grabbed a brand
new, warm car battery from the cabin, plopped it into the truck
and while there was enough juice to turn the engine over, it just
wouldn't take. Word is that the Tank Farm up here mixed too much
of the 'bad gas' in with the good gas and now there is not enough
octane in it to provide a good spark.
To
this, we are recommended to add octane booster for an extra $5
every fill, of course, this leads me to the question why the tank
farm has not done this already? And then this leads to the question,
why are we paying $1.50 per litre for good gas mixed with bad.
Just doesn't seem right when you are standing outside your house
at 5am running a propane heater into your engine compartment and
still can't get the truck started. I mean winter is tough enough
as it is without human assistance. At least, my coffee maker still
works...

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| Polar
Bear Blog - February 17, 2008 - Wolves Around
Heading
into Churchill yesterday, I was lucky enough to spot a wolf ambling
his way around the edge of town. He crossed the road just in front
of me, casually heading towards the railway tracks where he stopped,
turned and gave everyone a good look.
With
a wealth of lemmings around last year and a lot of caribou this
winter, a lone, young wolf near Churchill probably means that
the population is large and healthy. This is bad news for the
polar bears up here. Wolves work in the spring to separate cubs
from mother polar bears when they leave the den and head to the
coast and this probably happens a lot more frequently than recorded.
This year, more wolves means more hunting groups. Add that to
the severe cold and this could be a challenging spring for bear
cubs.

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Polar
Bear Blog - February 15, 2008 - The Bright Side of Blizzards
So,
it sounds like the arctic sea ice is on the increase this year.
After hitting a record (since 1979) low in 2007, this is good
news for polar bears (probably a hard sell for people in China
and Afghanistan who have been dying from record cold temperatures).
I have heard reports that there may be up to 10-20cm more ice
buildup this year.
According
to the Cryosphere Canada website, 'As of January 1, 2008 Environment
Canada analysis indicates sea ice cover over the Northern Hemisphere
has recovered to near normal extent. However, much of the thick
multi-year ice in the eastern and even central Arctic Ocean has
been depleted and replaced with thinner more newly formed first
year ice.' Visit State
of the Canadian Cryosphere for a current sea ice
map. Also a map of the most recent thirty
year trend of global sea ice can be found here. For
info on last year's sea ice patterns, here's
a good link to the NASA site.
Its
not unexpected, of course; this is what nature does - as soon
as 208 was declared 'the Year of the Polar Bear', I started thinking
that nature would have something to say. In fact, don't be surprised
if the ice doesn't leave Hudson Bay until well into August and
freezes again in early November (especially now that Cape Churchill
trip 1 is no longer offered and tours are running at Gordon Point
until November 18th). But who knows really...
Its
warming up a bit here - relatively speaking - there's even talk
of -7c next week, so that's good, mothers and cubs should be coming
out of their dens fairly soon and heading for the sea ice. We
don't want -50C at that point as extreme cold is a factor in polar
bear cub mortality as much as climate change.
So
now that we are starting to get back into polar bear season in
one form or another, a friend of mine just sent an article over
by Dr. Ian Stirling and Dr. Andrew Desrocher. It is appears in
Wildlife Conservation magazine and is essentially a rebuttal to
the non-climate change articles and Inuit perspective on polar
bear populations. Regardless, it is a very nice summation of polar
bear ecology and their current status in relation to a warming
climate. Read
the article here.
And,
of course, just for fun, I have to end things with an op-ed about
bears, its sounds a little too Conservative redneck for me but
then again it might not be too far off from what
polar bears are really saying to each other.

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| Polar
Bear Blog - February 14, 2008 - One Dead Truck for Valentines
Still
minus fifty plus windchill, and still a pseudo-blizzard, and still
cabin-bound, a little moreso now that the truck has officially
blown up. On the other hand, my road is still there, the road
to town not as much but mine is doing okay, so that's something.
Yes,
this is the time of year that starts breaking your brain out at
Camp Nanuq, only so many kidney punches you can take from winter
but such is the price of living in paradise, I suppose.
So,
to delay the inevitable snow shovelling and wood cutting and credit
carding, I've been writing the first chapter of Only In Churchill.
Its called Trapper Town and recounts a lot of the stories of the
men that lived out on the land around Churchill - when I say 'around',
I mean within 200-250 miles... There are some incredible stories
of basic survival and considering these guys used to run the equivalent
of today's Hudson Bay Quest just to come in for the Christmas
dance, just some pretty incredible stories. One of my favourites
is Windy Smith, describing the feeling of waiting out a blizzard
to the editor of the Taiga Times in the late 60s...
First
thing you do is unsnap the dogs and, believe me, you’re
lucky if you can see them. Ordinarily, I tied them up but in a
big blow they pick out the highest spot they can find and curl
up there. A dog won’t leave you in a big blow.
Having
released the dogs, standing in the same place, I would build up
snow blocks around me and fishion myself a crude shelter. I’d
not dare move from that small dwelling during a blizzard. The
wind, the snow, the fury of it all would make it extremely difficult
to find my way back should I ever wander from it. If a man loses
his shelter the dogs are no help. They are almost always silent
in a storm. They curl up and want to be left alone. Like everything
else, they are afraid in a storm. I know what it is to feel a
flutter inside – a flutter of fear.
When the blow is upon me, I want to get cased in. I want the security
of a little shelter and yet I can only take three days of that.
After three days, I must move my shelter, even if it is only three
feet. Madness is not far away amid such fury, loneliness and fear.
The sound of the storm is something to hear. If only the sounds
could be captured, the horrible sounds to be heard in a big blow
and then put to music, good heavens what a composition that would
be!
I’m
frightened in a big storm, crouched up there waiting for a change.
I’ll
never doubt that the odd trapper had finished himself when the
storm has been blowing at its wildest.
Well,
I'm not quite there yet but 12 hours a day of CBC Radio is getting
me a lot closer. Of course, if this winter keeps going the ways
its going, this is probably good advice for the upcoming Hudson
Bay Quest race teams (March 29) or the Canadian Rangers exercise
leaving next week.

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| Polar
Bear Blog - February 11, 2008 - Bad Weather and Bad Gas
Our
weekly blizzard is here again, although this one might just be
a 'winter storm', given that I can see the trees across the lake.
Either way, its a good day to interview dog mushers. I am putting
together the next newspaper and every time I try to get some 'soundbites'
about the Hudson Bay Quest, the mushers are heading out on training
runs, so my new strategy is to head out in the midst of a blizzard/winter
storm and track them down for some tea and chat.
These
days, dog teams are looking pretty appealing in Churchill. Word
on the street is that we have another shipment of bad gas in town,
the latest rumor that it was destined for Newfoundland, rejected
there, so it came back and was mixed in with our gas. Of course,
another theory is that this is just the gas that Nunavut rejected
a couple years ago, and I am sure there are other theories out
ther too, after all, it is Churchill. Whatever the case, something
is wrong, vehicles all over town are sputtering and choking, not
to mention that gas mileage has gone through the roof.
I
suppose history will repeat itself and by the time somebody does
something about it, most of the gas will be gone and we'll have
a few meetings and then things will carry on as usual until we
get another batch of bad gasoline in a few years... maybe we could
organize a community festival around it or something... |
Polar
Bear Blog - February 8, 2008 - Polar Bears Saved Again
I
want to start this blog with 'good news for polar bears' but I
am kind of confused. Yesterday, the province of Manitoba designated
the polar bears as 'Threatened' under its Endangered Species Act.
It seems that this designation is aimed at protecting mothers
and new born cubs from encroachment by tour operators, setting
limits on the distance that vehicles can approach these bears.
As
far as I know, only one operator, Wat'Chee Lodge, runs tours in
the denning area and their operations fall within Wapusk National
Park, which already has strict rules for tour operators and is
under Federal jurisdiction anyway. (Note to fellow journalists:
The Tundra Buggies do not go anywhere near newborn cubs or the
denning area.)
It
also outlines that polar bear maternity dens will be protected
on crown land and private land. This again is confusing since
there is virtually no private land up here, except for some lots
in town or owned by the Port of Churchill. Not to mention, that
between Wapusk National Park and the Churchill Wildlife Management
Area 90-95% of the maternity denning area is already protected.
In
fact, when you combine Wapusk National Park (Federal), Churchill
Wildlife Management Area (Provincial) and Cape Tatnum Provincial
Wildlife Management Area (Provincial), there are over 25,000 km2
of protected polar bear habitat in Manitoba. That is amazing when
you think about it, even if the WMA's protections are pretty loose
- the recent uranium claim near Churchill is mostly within the
Churchill Wildlife Management Area and covering the edge of some
denning territory.
So,
I am just not sure what this 'Threatened' designation actually
accomplishes. But it worries me. I am in the appeal process for
my ecolodge/arts centre land-use application and it is located
on the coast of Hudson Bay. I am asking for five acres near Camp
Nanuq, pretty far away from the denning area or any mother and
newborn cub activity. It would be a bitter pill to swallow if
the new 'threatened' status first victim is an environmentally
friendly building housing a non-profit arts centre (again).
It
also worries me to think of all the designations coming up around
Churchill. Now, the woodland caribou, Ross's gull and polar bear
are all listed in some form or another. On the surface, this is
a good thing, I am definitely in favour of protecting wildlife,
but as a small-scale tour operator, I just want a chance to build
a life in Churchill! If these designations are ever given teeth,
I'd be surprised if we don't 'save' small business right out of
Churchill!
Polar
bear fever marches on... |
| Polar
Bear Blog - February 7, 2008 - Transcendental Meditations on Blizzards
and Blue Smoke
Well,
$2.7 billion of oil lease was given out in the Chukchi Sea yesterday
but I'm more concerned with blizzards than bears today. There's
another storm on the way, seems to be one a week this winter,
intermingled with -40 plusses. Although, we are getting hard-pressed
to still claim that the prevailing winds are from the northwest.
The last blizzard started due north, ending due west while this
one is starting from the south and just changed to northeast this
morning. This must be worrisome for our trees, wondering if they
are soon to be fully stripped bare instead of just one-sided.
Regardless,
I should have expected this, as I just cleaned the last bit of
my driveway (the lake in front of our house) last night, so now
that I am back to square one (almost), its time for another battle
to start. Tough to fight snowdrifts when they keep flanking you.
Despite
all of these blizzards, a lot of tundra is still exposed; the
snow windswept beyond the treeline. During a brief reprieve from
-40s, I snowmobiled to town yesterday. Its an excellent commute,
leaving you feeling rejuvenated, almost a little workout both
on the muscles , especially when the snowdrift drops off unexpectedly,
and on the eyes, searching for a trail that isn't there.
And
while the barrens are still bare, so too is the bay in a sense.
Most days, you can see 'smoke' out on the bay, the evidence of
open water, a lead, not too far from Churchill. Hard to believe
that this is evidence of thinner ice, what with the 'good ol'
days' temperatures we have had lately, more likely a sign of changing
wind directions and weather patterns. Regardless, its a nice break
from the endless white on the horizon.

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Polar
Bear Blog - February 4, 2008 - Showers and Stuff
THIS
JUST IN... new polar bear cub at German Zoo is... wait for it...
mostly sleeping!!! Stay tuned for more details as they become
available!
As
for me, I too am mostly sleeping but the usual winter projects
are also in full swing. Woodcutting, road making and maintaining,
book writing and shower and website building. The shower is about
two days away from completion - just painting the Flexrock coating
and its Irish Spring days from now on - of course, after that
the website should be up and fully running with a few new features
including the Lost City Chronicle and a psychic Husky.
Trouble
is, for now, I think the Churchill super flu has got me. The Churchill
super flu is a combination of international colds and flus that
tourists bring in each year and 'bear season' after 'bear season'
combine to create one major 'bug'. Entries might be sporadic for
a bit, as my brain is feeling a little clouded these days. I'm
going to sleep.

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